Richmond Gear 4+1 5 Speed Shift Improvements – Part 1

let me tell you what’s going on here every day I get up get in this car grab a cup of coffee and go to work and the reason I’m talking to you in this car today is because they know that once I enter those doors at the shop all hell’s going to break loose I’m getting pulled in a million different directions between phone calls parts orders parts problems you name it and for the past six months I’ve been building nothing but Muncie 4-speed and Jaguar 5-speed so I put a poll up on Facebook asking people what they would like to see in my videos and the most common response that most people asked was how can I make my transmission shift better a lot of them are related to the track TKO 500 600 series transmission as well as the Richmond 4+1 five speed and six speed series now both in these transmissions have very heavy gear trains in them utilizing old technology as far as synchronizer rings go so both of them suffer from the same engineering problem old technology that was never designed to be used with heavy gears so I’m really excited because I had this guy sent in his Richmond for +15 speed and I haven’t seen one of these in about eight years I think so this would be really cool to do a video on how I can make this transmission shift better these simple principles in this video can be applied to other gearboxes as well so let’s see what goes on when I get to the shop and hopefully you’ll like it so your Richmond gear Street by speed this is the old Doug Nash 4+1 we’re fourth gear is still a on the drive and then fifth gear is direct this is your first and second lever your three four leva and your fifth and reverse lever it’s a split case transmission it splits in half and you can see these notches over here where you will put a pry tool both front and back the private case halves apart the transmission as a front bearing retainer held on with four bolts here these are half inch hex head nuts that are on here I guess and there’s studs that are kind of in the case in the back side over here you have four five eighths head of you know nuts that again are on studs that are in the case halves so to take this transmission apart you need to take tale off first go back and then take the front bearing retainer off then if you flip it around bolts again over here and these here are 9/16 heads this four then followed by six quarter I think that is about five quarter inch hex head cap screws down here one two three four five and then one three-eighths cap screw down in the middle in the center over here so the procedure again is we’re going to want to take front retainer off extension housing off case F bolts often prior to K support so really the old all you need to do to get this job going is a couple of tools what’s a couple of socket heads quarter inch 3/8 5/8 9/16 and a half inch and I comes right off by the way this is a actual t10 front bearing retainer gasket but it appears a little thicker than the normal gaskets so you may want to just to keep this around don’t throw it out so you can mic it up later and measure it and use the corresponding gasket to set the thickness again on it also these seals are weird they’re not the standard super t10 size seal in a lot in this retainer seal the OD is the

same but the idea is a little bit different so you may want to watch that too don’t be quick to toss the seal out because this sometimes is a very hard seal to find so you got these four 5/8 hex head the nuts off and looks like again they have some very thin washes over here I don’t want to lose them so I’m going to try to pry them out looks like one of them is actually missing but what you can do is you could pry this off a little bit I have a special chisel that I kind of sharpen extra shop use the fly against cases like this try to get in areas once you kind of crack a loose because it just held on with sealer then you can pull the extension housing off like this you can see the split the way it runs in the case right down the center so it’s good to have some lumber in the shop right so what I’m going to do now is raise the transmission with this lumber so it’s not laying on the shift levers I said I want to keep the shift levers pointing down that looks good so you can see the way I got the lumber set up back one front one and I’m allowing the three shifter shafts to clear the bench so they’re floating over here now what will happen is is that when I split this transmission case in half and the upper part will come off the lower part will keep the gear train intact and keep all the shift Forks engaged with the sliders and everything so I can see how everything is working and I can make my adjustments as needed my four 9/16 headed nuts off there’s washes and these are really rusty that’s hardware so I suggest that one yep you put it back together you may want to put a something called cosmoline or a rust preventative on these studs and bolts clean them up a bit three on the top put the two on the bottom this is a 3/8 one over here sometimes these can be really tight because they might have thread Locker on a more silicone sealer now there’s four probes on each side of the case two in the front two in the bottom because you have studs two in the front two in the back this case half has to come straight up you really can’t move it around too much this way there’s not enough leeway to do that yes this was built of the day with a so really it the silicone sealer it’s horrible you’re really here and I’m doing is I’m crying against the bearings in the case to try to get this thing loose here we go so look at this beautiful thing apart now you got first gear second gear third gear fourth gear and you main drive these your reverse gears over here notice the mass of this assembly as well and if you look at the synchronizer rings they’re the same type of rings that are used in a early t10 so you could see they we have all this mass and we’re using the same rings now a lot of times it’s the Rings themselves they

really don’t grab the gear as well you know and so we’re going to put some better rings in here reduce some of this slop notice that these rings here almost against the gears all the way here now they could be the Kart of the gear they could be the ring itself we’re going to put some better rings that hopefully will grab the gear is better that’s our first step then the next step is to work on the interlock system internally to get it to shift better as well and also these Forks and the sliders you see how sloppy they are there’s really not much you can do about that but we’ll do our best to kind of tighten these things up here and get the system working and shifting much better than it is from the factory ship forks that are on cams are typical in the Richmond five speed six speeds t tens super t10 Monte’s and Saginaw and Chrysler a 833 ‘s the only transmissions that have shift Forks that operate on this rails are the four top loader and all the later model transmissions such as the trim at TKOs t5 s and T 56 s other than that all shift Forks are running on cams now I know if you could see this but when I shift it watch the way the fork moves if you notice it has more air on the top between the groove and the fork here and less on the bottom but as we shift it the fork moves because it’s moving in an arc it’s kind of centralized more in this position so it’s up and then it’s down again when it goes into the third gear position like this so if you watch the fork again it kind of Rises and then drop it down when it’s in fourth gear same thing when it’s in third gear it drops down again and this position where it’s dropping down is when the shift fork ideally is scented with in the groove of the slider and that’s kind of critical to know because sometimes a few Forks are too tight this way if they’re in too much like this you can actually bind it’s called throat binding and what will happen is is the unit will not ship that good I particularly do not like ship Forks that have just raised edges because the fork has got to travel and I would rather have a flat edge so it stays perpendicular to the slider at all times okay so we simply do now is we going to just lift this whole gear train out so it’s all free and so you’ve got the two bearings that are in the case we’re bearing in front bearing usually what I do is I put my thumb’s here like this and I kind of pry out okay this exposes the whole shifting mechanism so you can see the 1 2 4 3 4 4 and fifth and reverse fork as you can see the movement that’s the part that’s what’s kind of neat about these transmissions you can actually see how they work we want to make sure that these interlock systems or working properly in that binding and this particular setup it looks good or we’ll get to that later first step is to remove the input chef it just slides out there’s a pilot needle underneath it that you pull out there’s a synchronizer ring keeper with the input shaft no need to take off the front bearing because we’re not dealing with that right now we’re just going to work on the synchronizers v reverse slider will come out and you got to be careful because the three keys and Springs will come flying out with it inside it is a snap ring that we have to remove to get the v to reverse synchronize your hub off v reverse hub will just slide off this is kind of a unique design this is a split trust washer it comes out and it’s actually encapsulated by the hub like this when it’s inside so it it can’t come apart you see so once you take that out the fourth gear will slide right out with the fourth gear ring fourth care deal Rollie be careful at these rollers don’t fall apart that they don’t come out because they can be loose in the cages and you could lose them next we’re going to have to deal with this snap ring over here these are pretty thick snap ring that holds the three four hub for the synchronizer in place it’s right over here right before I get into removing the snapping just want to give you a quick lesson on snap ring pliers there’s all sorts of different pliers these are called retaining ring pliers that have these flat edges on them several different types available you can usually find them on eBay we are going to be selling them on my website

soon this is a parallel plier that keeps the two areas that are in contact with the spring parallel so they don’t kind of move out on an arc against the Ring but different playas have different regions like if you look at this plier okay compared to this plier this plier opens up more so sometimes you need a combination of several pliers to get difficult snap rings off so the happens is I may start with this prior year you get it started but you see I can’t get it over the edge doesn’t have enough reach okay so maybe these parallel pliers will get it moving better okay that doesn’t work now let’s try the ease that have a bigger reach a little bit more effort to get it going see I got it started now and I can bring it up now this looks like it’s kind of tight so it’s going to have to be put on the press so we’ll do that but in the meantime let’s take off the speedometer gear you get the plastic bit gear out of the way here’s your speedometer gear to the a tooth blue speedometer gear you’ve got a forward snap ring and a rear snap ring that hold it in place I want to remove this because I don’t want it to get damaged it’s plastic while I’m pressing off stuff in the you know in the press let’s get this one out these gears usually slide right off you see now we’ll take this one out too and while we’re at it we’ll remove the snap ring that holds the rear bearing to the main shaft this hub is a little bit of a tight press fit on the 3/4 synchronizer hub so what I’m going to do is just take the slider off let the keys and Springs pop off the three keys out of here and this way a little bit less weight to work with on the press so the plan here is I’m going to put the press clamps underneath this third speed gear pressed the 3/4 synchronizer hub off with the gear remove the needle bearing put the press clamps underneath first speed gear remove the first speed gear the thrust washer is that I believe a thrust washer back here and the rear bearing take the snap ring off underneath the 1/2 hub that holds that in place and then take that assembly off and then the main shaft will be completely disassembled ok so I made this crazy contraption because this first speed gear is so wide it won’t fit through the throat of the press so I took the press blocks and I inverted them you know like this and then put the press clamps like this so the idea is now I’m going to have the press clamp support the third speed gear and press through it like this ok so here we go this isn’t a hard press but I don’t like hitting chest if I want out there this thing is kind of heavy okay that’s the hub and third speed year we’ll get rid of these clamps get the rest of the stuff out of the way for now the third gear needle bearing setup has two bearings and a spacer so be careful not to lose again the needles or the spacer you have a flange that’s part of the main shaft other gears can come off this way they all have to go that way and that means we’re going to be pressing from second gear all the way through but usually on presses like this because we have a bearing I’ll press against first gear take the bearing off and then press the hub off in second gear okay so the press clamps are underneath the first speed gear I remove the snap ring from the rear bearing got my little spacer here I should be able to press everything right through I’m supporting the shaft with my hand on the

bottom so it doesn’t fall out it’s appears to be a little bit of a fairly tight fit okay that’s coming out with no issue now from what I remember it needs to be a thrust washer behind this gear which there is you see this he’s got two rear bearing the thrust washer for first speed gear put that aside and you got the first figure look at the size of this gear like how big it is notice the weight a bevel out the inside of the gear here to save weight to save rotating mass skiers like a truck here it’s huge alright so we got here we got the two bearings of double bearings for first speed gear and there’s a snap ring over here so we have to remove the snap ring as well when I go take it back on the bench and take the snap ring off which will take the one two synchronizer off and then well may have to press this whole second gear off as well this is the first gear synchronizer ring going to put that with the first gear here these are the first gear barons there’s two of them the last step in taking apart the main shaft is taking off the one to synchronize your hub assembly and again it’s got one of those really big snap rings on it so I’m using the plies with the big reach on this and here we go and this isn’t tight at all so it comes right off so I take off the one two synchronizer second gear ring and second gear and again be very careful of the needle bearings the spacer and the other needle bearings that goes underneath the gear see is a nice disassembly shot of the whole main shaft and the bearings notice how I bag the bearings so they don’t get dusty it’s one thing I do on all my builds if I’m taking something apart I may use the bearings over again I’ll always bag them so you got your first gear second gear third gear fourth gear and the main drive which is fifth when it’s direct 50 were synchro three fourth synchro and the one two synchro and the rear Baron the clothes the gear in this transmission pulls straight out you grab it like this and pull it out like this you know it’s not a big deal however you want to grab it just pull it out this plug is gluten in the front it spilled in with silicone sealer so when you put it back together you want to make sure that you just glue it back together so I’m going to pull it out anyway and then we’ll glue it back this is an early t10 first speed gear it weighs 3 pounds 0.3 ounces this is your Doug Nash 4+1 first speed gear look at that it weighs 4 pounds 4 ounces so to get an idea of the difference in weight it’s about 1 pound 4 ounces so weight plays a big part and how a transmission ships the rotating mass so here we offere super t10 cluster gear 264 ratio actually weighs in at 8 pounds we’re seven point eight pounds that gear so this is the county gear of the Richmond 4 + 1 5 speed look how massive it is against the super t10 cluster let’s go see what the weight of this is this is weighing in at eighteen point four pounds so you can see the huge size difference between the super t10 County gear and the Richmond 4+1 County gear there’s a little bit over ten pound difference in weight alone by these two and when you combine that with the upper gears that whole difference in rotating mass is roughly 20 pounds which means those synchronizer rings have to work harder to stop this gear train then this gear train so in order for us to use the same synchronizer ring that was used on this type of setup now we’re going to use it on this we’re going to have to use synchronizer rings that actually apply faster and grab harder and that’s the problem we have we found a better ring that works for these that does the job