Hello dear sewistas! Today I would like to sew this great kid’s shirt with you! The cut is well suited for boys as well as girls! Therefore we offer several versions you can choose from. You could sew this shirt with the normal inset sleeves, as well as with the raglan sleeves, which can be short or long. You can sew the sleeves and the hem with cuffs and you can also choose whether to sew a normal neckline or add a hood! Using our Pattydoo-designer you can select the different options and simply combine them with each other! And with a great selection of gorgeous children’s fabrics you can put together your own shirt! Together, we will now sew the shirt with the long raglan sleeves, cuffs, and the neckline with the hood. Lastly, I will show you how to sew the hem with a cover seam! If you have decided against raglan sleeves, and want your shirt just with normal inset sleeves, then you can find the instructions with individual steps in my video tutorial for the women’s shirt „Liv“. It works exactly the same way If you have chosen to sew the version with a hood, then of course you don’t have to sew a fabric strip into the neckline and can now skip forward and watch the individual steps for the hood! Since so many of you have expressed an interest in exactly which machines I work with, I thought I would take a closer look with you today! So, I will be sewing most of the shirt with this serger machine by Bernina. If you would like to find out more about this model, then you can find further information under this link For the elastic hem seam right at the end I will use a coverlock machine, also by Bernina You can also find more information about this model by following this link By the way, you can also sew jersey or other knit fabrics with a normal sewing machine What you need to watch out for and which settings you should use in that case, I have previously explained in my sewing video for the shirt „Elaine“ So, now let us begin! I am going to show you the pattern pieces we need for our shirt with the raglan sleeves and the hood Here we have the front part, the back part, one left and one right sleeve, and two cuffs For the hood we have two pieces each of the outside fabric and of the inside fabric. Beyond that we have this strip, which we will later use to decorate the hood First of all, we will sew the two sleeves on to the front part here at the curved edges With the help of the two notches here on the front piece, so these little incisions, I can make sure I am attaching them to the correct sides. Now I lay the sleevers right sides together on to the front part and secure both fabric layers here at the edge with a few pins or clips Just before I reach this curve here, I lay the fabric straight, so I don’t sever the corner with the serger blade This is what our finished seam looks like and now we repeat exactly these steps on the other side as well. I always sew the sleeve seams from up here downwards, which means on this side the shirt now lies on top and the sleeve below while I sew it on This step is now finished and it should look like this. Now we can attach the sleeves to the back part! Here too they will be sewn on to the curved edges. Each notch on the back part should meet a notch on the sleeve Now I pin the pieces together and sew both
sleeve seams So, both sleeves have been sewn on. In the next step, we can now close the side seams on the right and left. In doing so, we now pin both fabric layers together and make sure that the sleeve seams here join up exactly And since my sleeve is made out of striped fabric, I have to check that the stripes meet up nicely here On both side I sew down from the sleeve to the hem Here at a thick seam like this one, it can help to lift the presser foot a bit and to help it along a little And this is what our shirt looks like at this stage. Now, in the next step we will sew the neckline These are the pattern pieces for my hood I have cut them once from the outside fabric and once from the fabric for inside, as well as a strip which I will then sew on to the opening First of all we sew the outside pieces of the hood together and do the same with the fabric for the inside, sewing here at the outer curve, always right sides together In order to do so, I will pin the fabric layers together now The hood pieces now look like this and we will sew both of them together here at the front opening Now, you can either sew both pieces together directly, right on right, or you can sew on an extra strip of fabric for decoration, just like I will do now The length of the strip is indicated in the pattern, but the width you can determine yourself! Perhaps you prefer it to be narrow like a bit of piping or slightly wider. My strip will be visible by about 1cm (3/8“) over this edge here. We now fold the strip wrong sides together and secure it with a few pins, whereby the opening points to the edge. And here at the hole for the neck about 2cm (3/4“) should hang over
You can use your normal sewing machine to sew this on with an elastic stitch, or you can use a coverlock with a chain stitch, like I will be doing This seam should later be located within the overlock seam, so about 5mm (1/4“) from this edge here We have now secured the strip with our chain stitch so that when we sew it on the inner part of the hood it can’t budge or slip To continue, I pin the two parts of the hood right sides together Here the seams should meet And now we will use the serger machine again Now we can turn the hood right side out again And so things will be easier when we attach it to the neck hole in the next step, we can sew together the two fabric layers down here, using a normal sewing machine or, once again, a chain stitch This is what it should look like now and before we continue, we can cut these ends here, slightly diagonally so they follow the line of this edge The two edges at the hood’s head opening overlap here in the front, which is why I am going to pin them together at these notches They mark the frontal center. In the next step, we can pin the hood to the neckline, right sides together Now the notches, so these little incisions, on the hood and the neckline join up perfectly Meaning, the notch in the front middle of the hood meets the notch on the front middle of the front piece. The next notch on the hood meets the shoulder notch here at the sleeve. Then the seam of the hood meets the notch in the back of the back piece. The next notch here on the hood meets the one on the other shoulder here at the sleeve. If you feel like it, you can also place a few more pins or clips inbetween
This seam here at the neckline we will now sew with the serger machine, beginning with the front part. While sewing, the hood lies on the top and the shirt under it So, now our hood is done! By the way, while I was sewing it on, I made sure that the seam allowances here at the sleeves were always folded into the front part, or accordingly, the back part Next we do the seams. I will now sew the sleeves with the cuffs. In order to do so, you will need two rectangular fabric pieces cut after the given measurements in the pattern. These can be made from smooth or ribbed cuff fabric, or even a jersey. We now fold the cuffs right sides together and sew along the short sides Now we fold the cuffs wrong sides together and lay or fold over the seam allowance into opposite directions at the center of the seam Then we turn the right side out. This way, the seam allowances lie next to each other and this part isn’t so thick Now I fold the cuff here at the seam and mark the opposite point with a pin. Now we pin the cuff right sides together here into the sleeve, whereby the marked point should meet the sleeve middle up here. And on the other side the two seams should meet The cuff now lies on top and will be stretched slightly while we sew it on Now both cuffs have been sewn on, we can turn the whole shirt right side out Last but not least we can now sew the hem, with a cover seam. Alternatively, you could also sew on a cuff here, which works exactly the way I just showed you at the sleeves Or you can have a look at this lady’s shirt video tutorial, I show you there too Before we get sewing, let us just iron the hem edge 2cm (or ¾”) inwards I am going to secure everything from the right side with a few pins. And now I sew a 5mm
(1/4“) wide cover seam once around, starting here at the side seam on the back part The distance between the hem’s edge and the left needle is 1,5cm (or 5/8“) Every so often, I check that the fabric’s edge on the back side is also being nicely covered, or being sewn in as well Just before I reach the end I check that I am finishing exactly at where the seam started At the seam’s end I now stop the machine, turn the balance wheel towards myself and thus move the needle into the highest position Now I lift the presser foot upwards and pull, using some kind of aid, like a screw driver, both needle threads in my direction, by about 10cm (or 4“). Now I cut these off and pull the fabric out of the back. Whereby the needle threads get pulled to the back side of the fabric Now, using a needle, I pull both threads from the beginning of the seam through the fabric to the back side, or inside, of the shirt Then I knot together all the threads and and hide them by pulling them through the seam And this is what the hem with the finished cover seam looks like! So, this is what our finished hoodie looks like, a great shirt for boys and girls With our Pattydoo – Designer you can simply put together your own design with some lovely fabrics and sew a really great new favourite for your little ones You can find many more tips and tricks, tutorials, patterns, and videos on pattydoo Bye, until next time!