1998 Honda Civic Engine Part 1 – EricTheCarGuy

hi i’m eric the car guy and i’m not sitting in front of the camera talking to you right now because on the day that i shot this wasn’t feeling all that great now honestly wasn’t feeling like shooting eric the car guy videos and i had an engine to take out of a car so i decided just to set up two cameras let him roll and see where i could go with it right here i believe i’m disconnecting the negative battery cable which is like one of the first steps as you can see i already got the wheels off i’ve already got it up on jack stands so it’s just a matter of one thing at a time when you’re dealing with a big job like this and you just take your time and and try to cover everything i like to work in like quadrants and areas so work in a certain area move to another area and just try to keep everything going i like walking on walls a lot of people have mentioned that my flag is hung backwards i have since moved it if you watch the re slope a video i’ve switched it around i have reasons for hanging it the way that i did now that lots of people are watching no longer valid so i’m going to accommodate them right here I’m knocking the lower ball joint loose on this right hand side with the traditional method as shown in the axial ball joint video that I did some time ago some a go with a hammer hit what it goes through is my instructor taught me years ago now I’m checking the transmission fluid I’m finding that it’s way overfilled a lot of people don’t maintain honda transmission fluid and transmissions properly and the fluid needs to be checked with the car off instead of on and you need to use honda fluid because if you don’t problems going to happen in fact and more often than not but some people have mentioned synthetic fluid and some other things that i’ve yet to try so at least using regular dextran is not going to work i hope you like that little fast bit there what am i doing looks like i’m removing the lower splash shield getting that off watch the fat guy get up and walk away now i’m knocking the ball joint loose on the other side and taking the axle out through the magic of editing now you really can’t see anything under here so i didn’t really see the point of trying to go into too much do tail but here you can see me just sort of under the engine there a little bit and decided to speed this up just make it interesting but like I was saying it’s it’s a matter of like one thing at a time I think I just took the exhaust manifold off there or the the down pipe not the manifold just took the down pipe off now we’re taking the coolant reservoir away now I think it’s the upper radiator hose you know need me talking to you about this stuff you can see very clearly what I’m doing now can’t you I don’t usually do these commentaries it’s kind of kind of strange now I know how those directors feel when they’re doing those DVDs to get the hose off I’d move the clamps back but then I take my channel locks and open them up all the way and they just seem to be just the right size to where I can put them on the outside of the hose and rock it back and forth just to break it loose I was told to cut the hose as long ago not to do what I just did but I’ve done this so many times I don’t seem to have killed any houses doing it just because I don’t know you developed techniques to develop a feel for things the more you do it experience is a great teacher with auto mechanics now I’m I sprayed a little bit of penetrating oil on the screw clamp for the intake because a lot of times that screw if if you have to strip it out you’re going to have a heck of a time getting that out of there so just a little bit of penetrating oil let it sit for a while so in the meantime I’m disconnecting some electrical connectors here off the looks like that’s the intake air temperature sensor and I just did the map sensor and now I’m going to try to break loose that that clamp and I often use my pliers to pinch where plastic clips are just try to pinch those clothes and pull them apart it seems to work pretty well now we’re going for the airbox there’s these two fasteners up top of this this airbox is a little bit different it’s got one fastener that we’re about to see here soon stuck we’re an earthquake one fastener down there and then when you take things apart in it’s not coming right apart just wiggle a little bit and you can usually see where it’s connected so once you find where it’s connected just try and loosen that fastener and I I found this one up underneath the front of the airbox and I had to go and get some other tools but was able to knock that fastener loose and that still wasn’t enough it was actually on a little rubber grommet down

there and rather than trying to mess with it all day it was kind of in a precarious spot and I feel like taking the radiator and a fan out to get to one fastener I used silicone spray on the rubber silicone spray works really well if you’ve got rubber mounts and once once I had that silicone on there Big Bertha here was able to pop it loose and remove the air box next that’s the lower part of the air box you see it’s kind of like a horseshoe there and that’s that it doesn’t suck up water and kill your engine uh let’s see what am I doing here oh yeah that’s the ground cable that goes to the transmission and that’s such a small and seems like a specialized fastener I usually just screw it wrap it right back into where it came from it helps me find it again later now it looks like we’re taking the distributor off I’ve already popped the spark plug wires out of the wells so I’m taking the three fasteners from the outside of the distributor loose and take those out I like to do some stuff by hand and some stuff with my impact and a lot of times it just depends on what’s handy but no point marking this because there’ll be a whole new edge in there so you just pull that right out and I try to keep all my parts with their fasteners so when I set things aside I keep them down there with fasteners and sometimes electrical connectors there’s parts on the inside of them that come out and that’s what happened in this case so I’m trying to reinstall a little plastic piece that popped apart was able to get that back together in the right way I think that was for the VTech solenoid I can’t remember looks like I am doing the lower radiator hose here and I’m using the same method that I showed on the upper radiator hose as I’ll pull the clamp back and take my channel locks to knock it loose the rest of the way at least I think that’s what I’m doing yeah like magic I went and did something else but yeah I’m going to knock that loose with the channel locks and once it’s once it’s broken loose from the connection you can just slide it right off it looks like I’m doing a heater hose there that one goes to the cylinder head on the bottom underneath the distributor you got to watch those because sometimes the distributor leaks oil onto those and will cause them to swell up and sometimes leak instead of replacing the whole hose what I usually end up doing is putting the distributor ring on cutting off the bad part of the hose and putting it back on there it seems to last a good long while it’s kind of a specialized hose you can just use regular heater hose but it’s not quite the same size just a little tip if you if you run into that and for me I like to only disconnect what I have to so I don’t want to take that whole entire hose off or take the right Gator out or anything I don’t need to and here I think I’m disconnecting the mount there’s a front mount there on the transmission there’s actually five engine mounts on this engine transmission three major and two minor there’s one by the timing cover one by the transmission one underneath the intake and then there’s two what I call secondary mounts that are on the front of the transmission that I just disconnected and then down by the AC bracket or AC compressor bracket in the front of the engine so you need to obviously get all those loose if you’re going to get the engine out of the car what am I doing here probably the most difficult part of this job it’s dealing with the things under the intake there’s a lot of wires there there’s a lot of hoses there there’s a lot of stuff that needs to be disconnected in this area so I would say that that’s probably the most difficult part of it but as you can see remove the distributor and you’ve got a lot more room to work with there’s some electrical connections there for the coolant temperature sensor the thing that camera I can never remember which one’s the fan switch and which one’s the temp sensor here I’m closing up the radiator I’ve been draining it the whole time so I drained out the radiator into my pan I’m going to get rid of that bring in some cardboard slide up underneath and I believe I’m going to disconnect as a bracket underneath the intake manifold that I’m going to take off you can get a lot better access there’s two fasteners on the intake there’s two fasteners on the back of the block right up where the exhaust hooks up so you need to get that out of the way it’s like I’m doing the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor they’re disconnecting

the connectors on those yeah that’s that I think oh right there is the vacuum line go to the brake booster that I’m disconnecting I’m just going to pull that up out of the way and fold it up under something else do we have underneath there there’s part of the wiring harness that goes to the alternator also goes to the oil pressure switch and the knock sensor back there stuff underneath the intake be real careful with I broke the PCV valve I broke also the knock sensor and I went to unplug the knock sensor and I just pulled on the connector and the whole thing came apart there’s a lot of heat up under that intake the exhaust is directly under there so that stuff back there gets kind of brittle after it sits for a while I just took the throttle cable off now that’s the cruise control I’m removing so I can get to that mount I think maybe next looks like we’ve got some more those connectors or whatever that are underneath the intake that go to the alternator and that knock sensor and oil pressure switch or oil pressure sensor yeah actually it’s just a switch it’s not a sensor it’s just there for the idiot light it doesn’t have an actual oil pressure gauge this looks like the fuel return line that I’m disconnecting I just pull that off and flop that up out of the way who’s next ah the main fuel supply as you see it’s sprayed everywhere not a good idea to be smoking when you do that and then I for the fuel line I just take that that nut and the washers and just sort of run them back onto the fuel rail so that’s all in one place the idea is I leave myself little bread crumbs I think I’m doing a ground cable there I leave myself little bread crumbs so that when I go to reassemble it’s a lot easier if you just throw everything in a box I’m I don’t have the mental capacity remember where all this stuff goes I try to give myself like I said a little bread crumbs little places where I can go and find where things went and somebody actually asked me once you know with a wiring harness how do you know where everything goes well a lot of times with wiring harnesses especially sometimes vacuum lines too if you just lay them in the place where you think they go a lot of times it’ll become clear because they have a memory to them they’ve been sitting there for a while and if you just sort of lay them where they where you think they go a lot of times it’ll be able to line them up plug everything in and most times connectors that are close to each other don’t have the same connector thankfully there are some instances where they are but a lot of times they’ll have different colors or what-have-you this is the other heater hose here and you’ll see the engine moving quite a bit because it only has that mount over by the timing belt in the mount on the transmission that are pretty much holding it in now so if you have a bad engine mount this is a bad rearrangement that’s what you’ll see you see the whole engine flopping around like that no idea what I’m disconnecting here it’s probably important though I think I’m still messing with that wiring harness up under there and now for the injectors because that has to go and wrap around the intake there I like this camera angle you can see quite a bit there’s a couple of fasteners to hold that harness down at the alternator bracket and there’s another one up on the intake that I think I’m getting here put the fastener is up in the wind shield moving stuff out of the way I think the next thing to come out of the way to make a lot of my life easier well it’s that other harness bracket that’s on the alternator on the alternator bracket I should say that I got that fastener off I think next is the power steering line which is yeah I’m going to take the ground off up there first another engine ground it comes off of that bracket or sometimes I’ve seen it run to the valve cover just depends on what model engine you’ve got and you’re working with more stuff underneath I try to get all the stuff done underneath first because I hate that part but someday we’ll have a lift and we can get you up under there when the camera and everything it’ll be fun now I have to roll around like a weeble wobble anymore uh let’s see I think this is like the last part here because that upper camera the battery went dead coming up here

fairly soon so it was only able to get so much of this view here and then we’re getting to the end of it yeah I’ve got this power steering line it’s just those two fasteners I ended up taking off the power steering pump all together I took that line and just sort of put it up underneath the windshield washer tubing that held it in place sometimes I use bungee cords to hold things in place – in fact I used a bungee cord to take the AC compressor off I didn’t disconnect the AC but I did on both the AC compressor from the engine block and just left the four fasteners in it and everything and just took the whole thing and ran a bungee cord from inside the frame up underneath to another part of the frame that’s held that in place so I wasn’t dangling by the lines which is not something you want to do I think from this point on all we’ve got is this camera because I think the battery died on the upper camera yeah I think that’s the case and I think now I’m just getting the last of the wiring harness off down there underneath the intake and now yeah we can just pull all that all the way and actually in my opinion the hard part is over this is all that stuff that you got to be careful with not break things hopefully you don’t break things like I did but be real careful around those knock sensors they’re expensive and hard to find and PCV valves I think I’d go into later in the video I prefer the Honda type as opposed to the aftermarket type I have seen the aftermarket type affect the idle sometimes adversely but now with the wiring harness out of the way and all the tubes and everything disconnected there was one vacuum line and the very back on the intake on this engine this is a y-8 engine for those of you that it’s in an e^x it’s a single overhead cam VTEC for those of you that are into that sort of thing now I’m bringing out my trusty seat belt that I’ve used to pull a couple of engines I’ve even used it to tow people out of ditches with my truck in the past very useful so if you’re at the salvage yard grab a grab a seat belt or to bring a knife with you there they’re very useful things and very strong and speed things up again is once again we’re down in the one camera I wish had that one up there but you know hey that’s what happened I didn’t even have the LCD screen on and the battery just tanked out on me yeah if you’re new to eric the car guy beef just before this video i’d done an engine in a Dodge truck and an engine in a Chevy truck so doing the Civic engine and was like really easy comparatively speaking everything was light easy to get to I don’t have to worry about all kinds of stuff but anyway I’m going to send you back live here to eric the car guy a little easier than them trucks yeah that part’s easier too and now we’re back with our rolling commentary it’s again it just seemed a little bit easier just to set the cameras up and let them roll here’s a piece of the block will show that a little bit later sped this up again the object here is to remove all the stuff from the block I’m going to start by removing the intake manifold and there’s some fasteners that are up underneath and there’s some fasteners up on the top to get to a lot easier with it out of the car rather than it in the car and we’ll be pulling that off right there go ahead and set that aside and I also kept all the fasteners together and I believe I just popped out a fastener on the VTech solenoid so I’m going to pop that off and set that aside and no idea what I just took oh yeah leave that PCB whelks just took that off and next there’s the thermostat housing and tube that runs to the back of the water pump it can be kind of stuck in there and you just got a wiggle a little bit and there’s some fasteners that hold the thermostat housing firm behind out where the distributor goes about the transmission but wiggle it a little bit eventually that whole tube will come out now there’s the support bracket that goes between the transmission and the oil pan that is the access plate to the torque converter bolts going to spin it around and remove those torque converter bolts one at a time and with the broken rod I had to turn it one way and turn at the other but I was actually able to just get all those fasteners out to get that torque inverter loose and now a

different angle that last fastener on the exhaust manifold shield would rusted away so much that I just took it there usually 12 millimeter I took an 11 millimeter and hammered it on when my impact socket was able to get enough of a bite on it to spin it out and able to use another bolt when I took the shield off first thing I saw was that the manifold was cracked which we’ll get a closer look at in a little bit so that’s the reason why I’m removing the o2 sensor otherwise I would’ve left the o2 sensor in because I’m just going to bolt it up to the other engine but since it was cracked and I was aiming to replace it I needed to strip it down basically I have welded them in the past sort of works at least for a little while but yeah you’re almost better off replacing it there’s also that bracket that holds it to the bottom of the block there that you need to concern yourself with and Here I am showing the cracked manifold so you look what I got has actually cracked in more places than that when you flipped it around the other way but we’ll get a closer look at that a little later in the video and now there’s the AC compressor bracket and as soon as you remove that Oh that’s really yucky and the power steering pump bracket let’s get a look inside check this out hole in the block and then pieces this is what happens when an engine does not have oil very bad things happen very bad things you can see all the way through you see that all the way through the other side pieces go flying you’d see where the connecting rod beat the heck out of the inside the block there until it just came apart this is just grist all because of no oil no oil I’m honestly not sure why the oil all dissipated because there’s some leaking on here or whatever I originally thought that the oil pressure switch had let go but looking at it now I’m not seeing that another hole for you just cascade it all down the block because you can see there’s a great deal of oil coating all in here but that could have happened after the engine went I think it was just run low on oil and then it died anyway this is the open hole all kinds of fun hardest part is getting the harness out of the way it’s not too bad nothing like working on those trucks anyway and as you can see it all came out one piece so given that my knock sensor when I fold the connector off of it came out in two pieces my PCV valve came out in two pieces I tried to take that out and actually I should have just left it in there then pull the whole assembly off and just swap that around but didn’t work out that way so and personally I quite prefer that Honda PCV valves as opposed to the aftermarket ones they flow a lot differently and help it idle better and here’s the new one I’m a little disappointed because this engine was pretty expensive yep I would dare say I just call this thing a long block I wouldn’t even call it a used engine because come on I mean they go through the trouble to paint it we get this they just cut that hose so they couldn’t even bother to pull the hose off or the sensors or any other stud just piecemealed it it’s what they did so I’m not not real happy with this you know I hit I did not do this actually the guy who owns this car did this well now I’m going to pull the transmission off of here I’m gonna knock all the fasteners loose except for this one lay it down on the ground and just pry it apart and then I got to go get some parts for it before I can finish this job up because it’s a lot easier to put that exhaust manifold with crack in it airless so

they’re cracking that exhaust manifold so I got a cracked exhaust manifold a broken not sensor a broken PCV valve and obviously a broken block this little girls hurt she’ll get better after I get done with you though all right we’re coming to the last part of the trip here as far as this video goes drop the engine down on the ground because obviously my seat belt is tied to the transmission and the engine it’s not going to be possible to take them apart while it’s in the air so I took my seat belt off and that final fastener that I said that I’d leave stuck a pry bar in between – and there you go we have engine and transmission now yay trying to figure out how to stand that thing up well last thing to remove from the block is the alternator and it’s bracket took them all out at once because it was just so much easier to do it that way than to take the alternator out in the car I had to remove some of the electrical connectors that were bracketed to the strut tower but to get those out of the way so I didn’t damage and when I remove the engine block the last thing we have is this little bracket here and I believe we’re about done all right well yet again it looks like we have a two part thing going on here so this will be part one and we’ll wrap it up with part two in why America car guy you can always visit me at eric the car guy come or follow me on facebook and twitter or the podcast on sundays at noon with rich baxter from car and truck talk comm um other than that be safe have fun stay dirty I’ll see you next time cheer up Eric it’s not the end of the world there buddy