How-to & Buffing Basics Demonstration with Eastwood

welcome to our live demo on bluffing today we’re going to talk about the basics of buffing so I recover what happens when you’re buff different wheels two different compounds and some safety and some tips and tricks like we’ve been doing with the previous one so let’s get started so buffing buffing is basically just hit a pretty basic concept you’re just getting rid of the extreme highs and lows when you’re doing buffing in metal so if you have a really high spot or really low spot trying to even those all out so it’s as flat as possible so you can bring up the brilliant finish of whatever metal that you’re that you’re bluffing or polishing is so now you got the basics of that i’m going to get into this showing you the different wheels first we’re going to start with the most aggressive and work our way up to the the most fine it’s going to give you the really high luster so the first one here that we have available is this it’s an expanding wheel is what we call it so this wheel has a rubber core Center and it’s pretty soft so you can see they have some voids cut in this and that allows it to have some give to it now this may just look like kind of like a grinder you know like a big grinder wheel but that give is the key to understanding you get into the recesses and things like that you can’t hog out make a groove in your metal this will give some and of just smooth so this comes with different bands that come on the outside and a number of different grits so you can get it up even to just real fine almost 1,200 great if we work it well enough but this is really most effective when you’re doing casting or rough or metal or pits or things like that this is going to really blast it really easily so that’s the first one here now we’ll move on to the buff wheels so the first one here is a sisal is what it’s called say this is a really heavy cutting heavy aggressive cutting wheel so this one is good for steel iron stainless those types of metals a little harder metals or something again that sand cast it’s really rough start with something like this now it uses most times are going to be using like Emery or a compound like that are great greaseless solutions which will show you a little bit with this wheel now the material it’s made out of its it’s actually similar to the material that’s used in like binders twine like you’d see foreign newspapers or magazines this is a similar material or even like if you look at it it’s like balers twine so when you run your hand on this you can feel it’s it’s pretty rough and this is going to cut really fast so this is kind of like your first step when you’re doing anything that’s that’s really heavy cast or really hard to both materials that’s the first one now the next thing we’re going to be talking about here i’m going to pick up a couple of them these are our spiral stone so these can be sown and a little different on each one and it’s just for the different configuration a little softer or this one its own has a lot more stitching in it and was going to cut a little harder but they’re both basically considered a medium cut off wheels and use these generally with Tripoli this is going to be your workhorse basically this is going to be the the buff wheel so you’re probably be using the most because these are going to be working it out and getting it basically gets that nice shiny finish so you want to keep a bunch of these around four different compounds and you can do a two-step process we can work with one that’s more that’s the heavily stitch like this and work up to one like this it’s going to have a little more gift to it so that’s those basic to remember these are going to be the ones are going to be probably most important for you now another one that’s this is the one that a lot of guys basically just stop with this is our loose section buff so this is basically just a bunch of real fine pieces of cotton I’m almost feels like felt there on the edge but these ones just have a single stitch in the center and a really loose so this isn’t going to do much cutting it all this is more for final buffing or coloring coloring is basically just determined they use an industry for like a mirror finish this is going to bring out the final natural shine of the metal that you’re polishing buffing so you’re going to use this with white the white rouge which will be showing you the different types of compounds in a little bit but this is the white rouge one that you’ll be using most guys are fine with what looking up to this this wheel and the weight Rouge that’s going to give you a holly close to mirror polish by doing that that’s that’s fine for most people but if you want to take it to the next step and get there like show finish the real mirror finish that out you know your your wife to do her makeup in this is the one you’re going to want to hear you want to use our canton wheel here a sec and flannel wheel and yet this is the the most delicate wheel that you’re going to use it’s going to bring out the brilliant shine of the metal and it’s used basically only for coloring or the

really high polishing this one you only want to use this with the white or jewellers Rouge so this again this is the final one and a little tip is you don’t want to mix this at all even if it’s your last Buffy more you got waiting around don’t mix this one with the emory of the Triple A or anything like that because it doesn’t work well with this and if you try to reuse this again no matter how much you Queen it at this stage where you need to be with this it’s probably scratch the metal to keep these separate aside and only use them for jewelers or white Rouge so those are the basic buff wheels that we have available for a buff motors now we also have which we are going to show in a little bit we have a kit that comes with our small buff kit that you can basically use a drill and it comes with all these different shapes of Bob’s in buff we also it comes with the loose the loose section and the spiral soon like we showed you already but this is a cheap affordable kit that’s around 40 bucks you can get this kit but this is great for getting the tight areas you can do like wheels and more dealt like things are more intricate these are great for using that for so it’s really good to have this kid around and also a buff motor with the big wheels to really effectively buff most anything you’re going to come across an automotive restoration so now we showed you different wheels and give you a rundown we’re gonna go through the compounds now it’s a multi-step process like we talked about so you’re gonna have a bunch of compounds and a lot of times our customers we have questions which compounds are used for here and there and you know when to get to the next compound so i’m going to show you each of those and we are again we’re going to go from it the most aggressive down to the other brilliant shine at the end so this one here is our memory it’s probably be tough to see but this one is generally black or dark gray color you’ll find each company’s compounds may different color so you may come across one that you know ours is ours is black or gray here and there’s might be you know why you’re here with gray or not black or whatever you want to make sure you check with whatever kit or brand you’re buying to make sure that what they they consider you know Emery is whatever colors so yeah after all that this is emery this is going to be your heaviest cutting fast cutting compound of these compounds are made up basically of a wax type substance and then there’s an additive that’s put into it that’s like a that’s aggressive additive put in here that’s actually going to do the cutting now each of these compounds they have different grits just like you would sandpaper that are added in with the waxy substance that’s what actually does the cutting so when you have these and you put it on the wheel the reason i have the waxy substance is when you put the heat from putting against the buff wheel it’s going to actually melt it on and that’s what makes it become like the glue to grip your buff wheel so this one here again is the emory it’s a really fast cutting it’s great for hard metals this is going to basically be your step one that’s going to be four irons stainless steel those type of things you want to start with this if you’ve got a really rough part and then you can go from there so that’s the first one again that’s like a black color generally the next one this is this is basically mainly for stainless steel only it can be used on some irons and things like that on harder materials but this is we generally quarters are stainless compound but you want to use this on spiral or vented ventilated wheels and this is basically step 24 stainless or real hard metals basically stainless so it’s gonna be like your intermediate step vs so many other metals so this one for us is generally again a gray in color so it’s good to you know put a piece of tape or mark your your compounds because as they wear down your get rid of the little notches we put a little ticks on the back of these just to tell you what it is but as you get down you’re going to end up ripping that piece of cardboard off and forget what it is so make a mark was there is a big step difference between the memory and the step to here so you can be going backwards if the internet if you switch them between themselves so the next one is a like we said the spiral stone is like the workhorse of the buffing wheels this is the Tripoli Tripoli is the workhorse your compounds so this is going to be the compound you’re probably going to be using the most this one does a lot of work you probably go through this twice as fast as you’re going to go through wake the the weight room for the jewellers Rouge so this was great to keep around this is really step one for a woman home and copper and brass some of the softer metals this is going to be your step one the other the other ones are a little too aggressive and probably are going to cut a little too fast so you use this with a woman on you can even use this on like plated so if you have something that’s anodized or chrome plated could use this too lightly bring up the shine in those you’re going to be using spiral so again or eventually are ventilated a buffing wheels with this compounds as

you can see it’s a bunch of compounds are going to be using with those wheels but this one you’re going to really take some time on this one is where you’re going to start to see some shine there’s other ones are just going to kind of smooth it out you’re going to start seeing a shine here uses almost start to see a light reflection to kind of run your finger above the part where you’re going through this that’s what it’s about time to move to the next one you can start seeing a reflection with your finger so after you have the Tripoli you then going to move on to your weight Rouge so this is pretty much almost every manufacturer obviously it’s in the name white roots going to be white so this is kind of step 2 for a woman home copper brass steal this is the one that a lot of guys are fine with stopping with you just to give this is where you can work it with the different both wheels and work your way up to the Canton and you can get a pretty pretty darn good mirror finish with this so this one is really considered for the final coloring and that’s that’s gonna be a brilliant shine that you that you looking for you see on most cars and for instance I’ll grab from here this wheel is what they did with the with the Tripoli so it’s a little dirty because it’s been sitting around but you can see that sweet it’s really really pretty darn shiny and this is fine for most people but if you want that you know really top showcar quality finish then you’re going to want to move on to the next compound here set this down carefully about dropping it that’s going to be our jewelers Rouge so this is generally like a red or maroon color most most brands have seen out there for that way so this is really step 3 for pretty much any metal this is going to be your final polish this is basically has no cutting agent in it that’s going to be abrasive at all so this one’s just for final coloring mirror polishing you’re going to want to really only use this one with like the flannel the flannel captain wheel or like the like a final flaw I’m sorry I felt like a tough wheel so this is just for the real fine ones and it’s only going to do that it’s just going to take it from the White ruse that’s pretty darn more reflective to like a mirror this is going to be almost chrome if you work it well enough with this so this was a great final step if you have the patience to go that far this really makes a difference between a you know pretty good polish part 2 like a wow this is amazing polish bar so this is this is a really good one so the West compound here I know we’re talking about metal but this is the last one that we offer a lot of our kits for good I just show it while we’re there is a blue bruise that we offer this is basically really only for plastic it’s really really hot really light cutting so it’s not much cutting it all but it does have a little bit of a cut to it and it’s for plastic so a good idea you know like wax and windows or something like that you can use this to kind of bring them back and make a mom to bring the clarity back in those I’m use this with the spiral stone wheel really that’s the only one you’re going to be using it with it’s a kind of one-step process it’s good to mention if you have anything that’s plastic that so this will bring it back if you work it lightly so now that we’ve shown you those the West one that i mentioned i alluded to hence not very appealing looks wise but this is our greaseless compound that we offer a friend in a number of different grits but this is more of a really highly aggressive compound so the grease this compound is it goes from like an 80 grit which this is all the way up to a 320 this is what you’re going to want to use if it’s like a cast like a cast manifold or if you have an old set up cat sand castle women on wheels this is what you want to start with you put this on your buff wheels on the bus murder you can really blast through some rough pieces of metal and get them nice and flat and smooth that out so it’s good to have these kits these are a little different you’re going to actually apply this and you have to sit and wait it out let it dry before you actually start a point before you start buffing and make sure they keep these at a really high heat I’ve had instances where I had these in the garage and hundred-degree weather and actually starts to melt a little bit so they are susceptible to that so make sure you keep a minute you know kind of climate controlled area so we’re not going to show you this one in action it’s a little bit Messier to show you on camera but this one is really good for for fixing the the casting have one part here that we just hit up real quick that I want to show it’s just an old supercharger casing here so you could see if I can hold it well enough for the camera this is the original really rough casting used uh we use the expander wheel and you know a little bit of the greaseless compound in here to smooth it out so this made it way smoother and just you know it’s been a few minutes on just

in this little section here smooth it out versus the rough casting side makes a big difference and you know trying to do a buff wheel with this is not going to work you’re going to spend hours and hours you’re not even going to be to this smooth so remember it’s easy to start with the more aggressive compounds on something like this and work your way up and spent hours trying to you know but it was just the Tripoli or something like that so hope we can see with that so now that we’ve got the compounds down and we’ve got the wheels down now we’re going to talk about safety first thing about safety with bluffing now you got a wheel on a bluff motor on the drill that spinning pretty fast and get things caught it so you want to make sure that you’re wearing pretty tight clothing you have long hair you got it tied back and you want to make sure you make where the see the proper safety protection I got one of our East would work jackets on here always but in the sleeves here make sure it’s nice and tight so I don’t get anything caught in the wheel so the first thing that you need is uh of course just safety glasses so I want to put on some safety glasses make sure nothing gets in your eye of course just like anything when you’re working the next thing is our dust mask here his face shield we sell these these are really good a lot of times guys don’t use these and they regret when you’re bluffing it’s throwing compound is throwing material back at you so if you if you didn’t wear this in a few minutes you’re going to have a black face so it’s really good to wear this to you know both save your face from getting covered in dirt but it’s also you know for safety precautions if anything flies off its not going to you know puncture you if you put you know its interface so put that one on and of course i like to use just some like just generic whether work wats and get these at the you know the tractor supply store or something like that you put something on your hand so if you if you get you know against the wheel a lot of times when you’re bluffing we’re getting pretty close to the two that spinning wheel and you don’t want to accidentally get your finger quarter or hit in it so i want to put those on and then generally what I’m doing a lot of buffing i’m going to use like a little dust dust mask some kind of face you know respiratory type protection so today I’m just doing really white coffee i’m just going to do a few seconds here and there so so you guys can still hear me i’m gonna i’m going to not wear this for just a little bit but if you’re doing heavy cutting and rough buffing you know if you’re spending hours buffing definitely sure you wear that yet those are those black bodies that you put out you see you come out at the end of the day they’re not good they’re going through your system you don’t you don’t want this so now we get all our safety protection for going next thing we’re going to show you on the buff wheel here is the safe area of a buff motor there’s a safe area when you’re bluffing and we’re using today just the half horsepower single speed buff motor that that we sell at eastwood and also you know it’s on our just our economies that stand so this is the most basic setup you can get and it’s really affordable for about basically two hundred bucks you have a nice little box thing set up that this can do ninety percent of the work that a guy who is going to be dealing we offer also offer a two-speed one horse model that’s a little more towards the professional side if you’re doing a lot of bluffing you may want to step up to that one but we’re going to show you this one today it’s really good it works well so the safe half of the buff wheel so this buff motor here spins down like this so it’s spinning down towards the ground there’s a safe part you want to stay on this on the side here you want stable well you want to stay towards the bottom half of that you don’t want to get up above that into this area because that’s going to want to catch whatever you’re bluffing throw it actually is going to do the stroll across the room so you need to make sure that everything around you just in case that happens to your worker you don’t have anything that can get damaged you know you don’t want a car window or you know people to be standing around you when you’re doing this even if you’re really skilled it can happen you could get grabbed and you know throw a constant across the room so i’m going to show you just real quick and lightly what you know just how the kick is when that happens and show you where the safe area of the wheel is and then we’ll show you how to put some compound on next and then I’ll just do a little bit of buffing with some trip away on the compound so i’m gonna show you just a we grab a part here just a little scoop that we’ve been you know we use for testing and things so it’s a little piece you have here so put this on like I said it’s rotating down so you’re bluffing you want you know have a nice wide stance and want to grip the part really firmly that you know the second you start wedding go with this part and loosen your grip it could grab and throw it across the room to make sure you’re always grabbing this pretty tightly so you want to stay like I said it was the bottom part of the wheel yeah and you can work it back and forth so that’s you know just a quick demonstration of safe part another now the bad part that you don’t want it you know obviously get towards the top and I’m going to try and kind of dramatize it for you but you want it you don’t want to get up to the top because it’s

gonna be going to start kicking and you can hear it kind of grab when you get you can get there it’s not it’s not nice you know it wants to throw throw it back you so you want to stay again was the bottom half of the wheel and just work the front or the face of the wheel so what we have that on i’m going to show you next how to apply some compounds and then I’ll just do a little bonding section and kind of show you the action a little bit and I’m going to do the backside of this here you can see we buff to hear it right in there is an area we haven’t touched yet so I’m going to work in that area real quick with the Tripoli just to do some quick smoothie and bring the Polish a little bit to see how quickly you can get you know an area like that buffed up so i set this down for a moment and we’ll get the just a small that’s a small this is out of the small kit that we have opened up this is the trip away so now this straight here when you’re doing the compound a lot of mistakes that people make is they put too much compound on the put to have a really just jamming into the wheel and discount get on that’s bad you don’t want to do that you only really want to put it on for like a second or two at a time and that’s it light pressure second or two at a time but the will do the work it will put sufficient amount of compound on the wheel so again you want to stay towards the bottom half of the wheel now we’re doing this tightly sewn spiral soon peace here so just go back and forth that’s like you know two seconds that’s that’s basically all you need to start buffing it’s better to put on a little bit of compound often than to put on too much compound and that and then have a problem so let me to show you here on this piece how to buff this so I’m gonna against a towards the bottom half yeah yeah you got to be careful of those edges even when you’re towards the bottom there you know you saw a little bit when i get too close to the edge if you’re going against the edge and wants to pull it in that’s where it’s good to have your hands you know just right so i have an edge here I don’t want to go against that you want to work with it so I’m going to turn the piece here and work down like that so I don’t catch any edges yeah yeah even get little this a little bit of division line here so that’s just a quick now brought it up you can see how it took a lot of the corrosion away there pretty quickly with the trip away so this one I probably put a little more compound on work this area a little more and you can eventually once i get everything nice and smooth I can work to another wheel that’s maybe a little with some more loosely sown and some more Tripoli to get it you know start bringing it up so that gives you an idea kind of your the angle you need to stand and you know how you work the peace so we just have this buff motor here let’s fight me a little bit moving just for this for this display here we moved in area could see you can see in our studio here but you really want to try if you’re doing a lot of buffing you want to try and both this down we just have some sandbags on just for a temporary thing so you guys can get the best angle when we’re doing this but normally we have this any other side of the shop we have this bolted down to the concrete that’s right that’s really the best thing that you need to do but I’m sacrificing my safety just for you guys a little bit so now we showed you those basic some the buffing with the with that piece there you were going to move on basically to the drill with the small kit here this kid again you can just put it on the drill really easy to use and i’m gonna show you what this wheel here just pull the cord out of the way here so right so this wheel used to you know started out life like the one we showed you and it has a little bit of Tripoli that I wear it on here so we’re going to just show you how to do this this corner here and i actually forgot the last time for my mast down I apologize hope you guys can hear me with this down so but this down here and i’m going to do just this little area here best to have this clamped in advice but again just for this is you guys could

see it the best i’m going to just work it right here and this is where these conical shaped stuff pads are really good yeah so this works in the edge really nice so let me set this down and show it to the camera here to see you guys can see that good kind of like this in here worked versus the area its kind of dull so it’s just a quick quick little both are brought up and now it’s probably hard to see here on the on the live stream but just a quick little buff they’re already bringing that shine back so that again that was just with the Tripoli really fast you guys can see but that’s why those cone-shaped wheels are really good because if you try and fit this around the buff motor have actually had times where with doing a lip just like this I was bluffing kind of stuffing inside and get around to that that bad area of the wheel and according throwing so trying to fit this around the wheel is really dangerous you don’t want to try and do that you know this is way faster you want to try and use the those conical shaped ones to get into all the corners and buff these areas on something like a wheel you know we will whip especially like a deep-dish well it might get caught you know in the buff wheel so now we showed you the buff you know the different buffing ways to buff and you know some things to watch out for we’ve got a handful of tips and tricks that I was just going to kind of go over we know everybody here is always buff and stuff for the car is kind of quiz a few guys some stuff that I’ve done they may help you along the way so one of the first things is when you’re trying to determine what you want to buff so if you have something you know apart the one above again we’ll use this use this wheel for you know instance you have this wheel here and it’s you know you’re not sure if this thing’s been clear coated at some point if it’s anodized or whatever how can you tell before you start if this is bare metal or not a really quick way one of our guys Nick kind of told me that he uses and its really really great so use a sum Otto saw just a white rag like this and you basically put some auto saw on the rag and you wipe the the piece that you’re curious about with the white rag now if this piece is bare metal what will happen is it’s going to turn black when you’re robbing this so when i’m running this here turns black so that’s bare metal we know this is bare metal I could start polishing this now if this was Anna dies if this was clear coated some point it may be difficult to tell especially if it’s something that’s been sitting for a while and you’re not sure where even powder coating have some clear powders it’s hard to tell this isn’t going to turn black like this it’s not going to really do much of anything except just be the weight all the salt when you rub it so if you rub it really quick that you get a black rag that’s when you know that your bare metal and you can start polishing or buffing if it does not need to strip it mechanically or chemically before you even start doing any of this process we’re talking about so where you know you need to blast it where you need to go move it with a grinder or something like that or you know a paint remover so that’s that’s one cool little trick that you know to save you some time and headaches if you’re you’re doing that now another thing I’m i hinted to a little bit was you know keeping your your butt pads separate along the way so if you have stuff pads that you have a bunch of both pads you know sitting around like this and you want to keep them separate so you don’t want to mix you know a pad that you’re using mostly only trip away on with the pad that you may be one time use the memory on or something else so you want to keep these separate and labeled so the thing that you know we like to do and I do it around my shop take a ziploc bag like this just a big one throw your compound you’re using with whatever wheels in here and then label it you set the ghost so that way if the if the tube of compound gets worn down you can’t see where the writing on it anymore as you rip away the cardboard and you can’t tell us we can keep it all together and labeled so you don’t go backwards when you accidentally use a wheel that’s got you know some other compound on it so it makes saves time because you’re not you’re not fumbling around and you know keep so much more organized in the garage and even though the compounds are different color the biggest turn black in the end you know as soon as you start buffing they turn black so you’re not going to tell what the heck was on the wheel

previously so that that’s a cool the thing to keep your keep you organized so another thing if in between muffing in between your different stages of bluffing when you switch compounds and even you know when you start with a wheel even if you haven’t separated like I said one thing you want to use is uh we have a buff break is one way to do it so basically with this you can clean out your wheels so you want to use this in between every compound so this is really good to put on the wheel between every compound so you basically hold it like that it’s going to spin down and it’s going to take off the gunk so I did a little bit here and you can it’s quite impossible to see but it’s going to pick up all that gunk and you can easily pick it off but that’s going to clean your wheel in between so this is a necessity if you don’t have different stuff wheels for different compounds you need to be doing this between each one and thoroughly because otherwise it’s going to your mixing compounds your oxen also miss mixing a little fine pieces of metal they caught get caught in this especially when you’re doing a woman armor and a softer metals so if you don’t have one of these and you’re in a bind or if you have the small kit like we talked about you know what one of these it’s a lot more difficult to use the rake with you know the smaller small job get like that you can use a screwdriver just a hat and usual flathead screwdriver so you can just hold it against and I drag it across lightly and it will pull it out so same thing on the on this over here you can put it on there and work it now you have to be it’s a little more dangerous with this with the bottom over here because it can get caught throw it across the room so that’s another cool little thing that you can do make sure you clean in between so now that we’ve covered you know some of those things last couple things is how to maintain or how to keep your your your parts are already highly polished shine how to keep them from doing up so it can happen really quick with a lot of metals so if you’re using something that doesn’t necessarily rust like steel you know just a mild steel the Polish mild steel you need to coat it somehow because it’s going to flash rust just that quick you know any moisture in air is going to start rusting so you need to put something on it the other other metals like no copper aluminum obviously stainless steel don’t have that issue but like a women especially it’s going to start doing or slowly corroding over time so the first thing you can do that’s kind of a temporary solution is again the other song so you can use the auto saw on the white rag like I said wipe it around the park that’s polished and then wipe it off with a clean rag and that’s going to basically bring that lost her back and also we have is a really fine film on it that keeps the part from you know corroding this is good for short term or something that’s all it’s only garage kept it doesn’t really ever see bad weather it’s good for that is going to last a while you doing our cars sees whether a little more it’s going to be short term you might have to do this a little more often or every time you watch the car you might want to put a little film of this on but this does work pretty well this is a tried true thing that guys have been using since you know being a beginning of time so the next thing that we came out with its kind of a little more medium to semi permanent solution at least one metal protect so this comes in an aerosol can and it works on that nano barrier technology so this is actually like a film that goes on it’s not a paint it’s a film that actually you like we spray on the idea what this you spray on real light dust coats along the way and this leaves a film and you can actually watch it kind of self level as you put it on this is nearly invisible once it’s on if you if you apply it correctly will be nearly invisible so you want to apply this let it sit put another coat on you put maybe two three coats on tops and this is going to leave that barrier on that will hold up to rain and weather and you know even washing the car this will hold up to it so the way you can remove this is with like an acetone or are free you can wipe it off you don’t want to use any kind of etching type chemicals you know trying to remove this but it will come off that way I’ve had a car that I used the idea we drove for a year through east coast weather you know winter and summer and I had it all set of wheels that I left this on for a year and it worked pretty well about after a year that’s a nice i decided to you know take it off and reapply it so this stuff’s pretty good if you put this on the corner of your garage – sixty only a weekend show car this is probably the last a wife for that you know the life until you decide to change your wheels to change the parts or whatever you know painted flat black if it’s in that season so that’s that the other thing here is diamond clear Dominique where is pretty much our permanent solution to your ceiling up polished parts or bare metal parts so this particular we have a number of different versions for painted and unpainted this one here is our gloss for unpainted services for bare metal surfaces this is the one you’re gonna want to use for really highly polished parts now it is a clear coat so it’s gonna dull highly polished finish finishes a

little bit but again if you apply in light coats you can you can keep that to the minimum but I this is going to seal it up and basically again it’s a clear coat so you can you can polish this one not you know not bought for polish it but you can rub it you can spray you know when you wash the car and it’s not going to come off you don’t have to worry about it as much so that’s it that’s a cool little product that you can use to seal it up if you’re not the kind of guy that wants to polish your car polisher parts every time you wash it and the last one here that i just i forgot to mention i just want to circle back on before were take some questions when you apply too much compound you’re going to see a black black build up here and this is where where I try to do this on the before we started but a little too much compound on there where bluffing and you can see there’s a black residue that’s that’s left is a greasy residue the more compound you have the worst this is going to get so if you’re bluffing an area and you see like a greasy black circle around where you’re bluffing you probably have too much compound on your way all you need to start over so you need to use the rake Queen it out fully and then play a little bit of compound when you’re done so to remove that you can use our pre that we that we say for you know cleaning before painting this is great for removing compound without damaging your finish so i like to use the pre and spray it on wipe it off and that’ll take it off this is also great in between compounds use this with a month microfiber wipe the part real good before you changed your new we are new compound and this solo this will take off all the oak old compound so you’re not you know again fighting yourself so this is a good one it’s also really cool when you get what’s the N use this spray it on weight down every so often and it’s really it’s really cool to see your progress where you’re coming when you wipe off that little bit of compound you like while this thing is really shiny so keep this around it’s always good to use no matter what you’re doing in the shop so that’s all my tips that I have today and puffing talk that we have hope you guys found in informational you have anything else question wise i’d love to take some questions to play can answer amount do the best so what’s the first question that we have guys are anodized is actually it’s it’s like a it’s really it’s a plating is the best way to to go into it and like a lot of pleadings they seem to work best when you when you have a they work and look best when you have a highly polished surface so something its polished especially again with chrome chrome is the perfect one that needs to be as highly polished as per as possible to get the best finish so energizing a similar way it’s gonna you know if you have a cast part of something like that it’s not going to work nearly as nice yes it may stick to it but it’s not going to look as nice ok so the question was how much mill marks in a part can be removed when you’re polishing so if anybody is not understanding the question when some parts that are coming out like wheels and things like that their spawn or milled and you actually see the Tony marks on a mobile wheel is a perfect example that’s a spun wheel on the whip you might see just a bunch of rings lines around the whip that’s the marks that we’re talking about here if you can feel them with your fingernail if you drag them across and you can feel with your fingernail they’re probably too deep to polish out with just a good just a buffing wheel and compound you may need to go to the expander wheel with a graceless compound where you may even go all the way to some kind of sandpaper you know do it old school and just blocks and it out you need to get those marks out to a point where you can’t film with your fingernail and then at that point you can probably really move to the greaseless compound blast through any remnants of that marks and then start buffing now that’s a really good question i don’t i don’t know if there’s a professional answer as far as what the industry standard is my experience is just a guy in the garage I use these things till they start frame pretty brat badly if you have a spiral stone wheel you get down to that first bit of stitching it’s it’s probably time to replace that we are once you start getting into the stitching because it’s going to start coming apart and creating a mess wheels like like the the loose the loose wheels like this that have done for more than finishing those wheels are probably West you know a number of these wheels before you have to replace this one but placing buffing wheels are special but murder you don’t have to do it very often if you’re using the ones that are in the drope the smaller kit that that may be a little more often but you know once you get down to that stitching starts coming apart frame really badly probably a good time to you know throw it in the trash well a lot of guys I’m sorry the question I keep forgetting to give us do

the question was how do we deal with the dust buildup when you’re doing a lot of heavy bluffing so a lot of a lot of people if they have the room it’s best to build a corner your shot you can kind of just make a little isolated area where you’re only doing your you’re polishing and buffing your grinding in that area because that’s going to keep it consolidated other than having some kind of hvac system that you can you can pull it out there’s not really a good way to keep it contained other than making yourself a little room so one thing you could do that I did in my own little shop is I made a little curtain in my dirty work area you can pull across and kind of separate yourself that that’s going to keep most of the you know the heavy dust and compounds getting thrown around just in that side that will look at the shop you know and then the rest of some nicer cars sitting or you know whatever you don’t want that getting on not too much it’s going to get on it so you could do that just make a little little shield or a little curtain you can put up to you block that kind of stuff any other questions we have what metals cannot be polished I don’t know if there is a metal that can’t be polished per se some metals are better or polish easier but I mean you can polish if you take the time you can’t polish a cast-iron manifold so you can take a cast iron manifold working with the expander wheel you can work with the compounds you can eventually get that pretty darn shine now each metal naturally has a higher luster than others so if you have a you know something that’s a woman vs a cast-iron they’re not going to you know it’s not going to be quite the same but you can you know you can get most any metal polished it’s all about how much time and patience you have any tips for buffing really small parts the small buff kit is a definite if you’re doing something really intricate because if you get too small you really you can’t hold it in in in your hands and get in here and buff because it’ll grab it and throw it across the room now I’ve done pretty small stuff like say oh like right now a project that i’m doing a button head stainless Allen bolt so I’m like everything in the engine bay so I’m bluffing every single bolt in the bay I’ve been using pliers like but like you know some walking grip pliers and I’ve been clamping down on them a little bit and holy and just like we doing it you can do something like that with pliers if you can put in a vice you know no matter if you have some of the soft gels for your advice you could put it in that lightly and work your way around it it’s def way more difficult but i would advise just trying to hold it with your hand and buff around probably gonna get hurt or damage the parts I’m system will ya that you could I’m sorry when the question was when is good to use the system will how often should you use it since the wheel like I mentioned is step one for really hard metals or roughcast items so you could use it on that the rough cast on charger case that i showed you you could use it on that with either the greaseless compound or the emory and you can work with that so it depends on the part generally with most of the women on parts and softer metals you wouldn’t be using that you would mainly use that on stainless steel cast cast iron and you know things like that little harder materials if you have to you could use it on a woman on that’s a rough sand casting you need to be careful because that could take away a lot of material and even with a woman on you could take away too much you can dig yourself a little valley with if you’re not careful but it’s really up to you what to use it’s always better to start with a compound or a wheel that’s too soft then too rough so if you work with something that’s a spiral soon and it’s not really making a dent in it then maybe you need to jump up the sisal but unless you want something rough like cast-iron you may wanna you may want to start with something smooth something more delicate and work your way back to that really I wouldn’t I wouldn’t I wouldn’t advise it I’m sorry the mic you find the question was can you put a buffing wheel like we’re showing here on just a normal like orbital car buffer for paint I it may be able to be done but I don’t think it would be the best situation because when you’re doing those those are designed when you see a buff pad it’s like the top of the buff pad you’re using so when you’re pushing down using the top of the buff pad to push down on the paint and using the top of that wheel these wheels so it basically you imagine to be this part you need to be using this is the face of a buffing of a buff pad right here so it’s actually the I

you know a different part of it that you’re using so it’d be difficult to hold up normal bus sander you have to be so kind of hold it like straight up and down really awkward like to to buff with that and you probably it’s so awkward he probably just causing more damage than good so i would really advise that i’m not even sure if these would blow it up correctly with that so you’re really you’re better to use this or use the small kit with the drill so that was all the questions we had that we’re going to answer on air there’s any additional questions that we didn’t answer that our tech online didn’t answer will be posting them online to our blog next week will also be uploading this to our East which channel so you tube . Eastwood co will be uploading this video recorded version that anybody can watch up until then we’ll be loading it on this is this page here that you’re watching it on now you can watch it there a recorded version almost immediately on there you’ll be able to watch that and you know if you have any ideas for future tech demos we really appreciate everybody’s been watching shouting feeding back asking questions it’s really great for you hopefully you and also us so give us some ideas drop us a wine on our blog as a comment on facebook on youtube or just shoot us an email or call one of the sales reps and just you know give them your idea if you have an idea for another tech demo and we’ll do our best to put out tech demos that you guys want to see that’s a lot for watching we’ll catch you next time yeah