Jeff's Top 10 Maintenance Tips – Slavens Racing

hi guys this Jeff Slavens racing this video is about my top 10 maintenance tips for the Katy Husqvarna 250 300 and it also applies to just about any model bike two-stroke or four-stroke no matter what brand it is and hold its the top and calling this the top 10 it might turn into more 11 or 12 who knows. But so, very first thing is wash the damn thing I mean this bike is just a little bit dirty, I went out the other day for just a few minutes and tested some maps. But if I was going to do much work on this bike, I’d get out the pressure washer first or run it to the car wash. I see guys all the time at home working on bikes that are absolutely filthy and I can’t do it and I can’t even work on a bike like that it’s one thing you know you’re fighting all that grit and grime the whole way and then it’s gonna get into things where it’s not supposed to be so just wash it there, tip number one. So, tip number two and I’m gonna stop with the numbering here and I think but air bleeders. This I’m surprised but you know a lot of guys still don’t understand this that is forks build up air so there’s an air chamber inside the fork towards the top and that chamber swells with heat and so on the fork is you know being stroked back and forth is there any times of a minute it builds up some heat in there air expands and so then you need to bleed the air out of the fork. So, guys ask me well how often should I do that once a day once a year or whatever, no do it all the time you know when I’m riding every time I stop but quite often if I stop waiting for the guys to catch up or maybe we stop to look at a map or something push the button well and then guys ask well should I do it with a fork fully extended or can I do it when I’m sitting on it well the answer is yes and yes do it however you want if you’re sitting on it to make the bike softer so if that’s what your goal is and do it that way if you just want to get the air out and maintain its current action well then just kind of pull up a little bit push on the handlebars and push down on the button let’s see from their steering head bearings now wait a minute let me get back to these buttons for a second I forgot so quite often guys will I’ll be talking to me on the phone about something else no man will say man I just bought some of those whatever you name it brand of speed bleeders of Arab leaders from my Forks and I’m just blown away by how much air is in there every time I touch it there’s a whole bunch air in there well guess what it’s because you bought some cheap ass bleeder that leaks and by leak I mean I mean when the fork extends so you can press the fork and then it extends when it extends it creates a vacuum that vacuum sucks the air and through the bleeder that’s because they’re a poor quality bleeder and they don’t seal well I’ve tested a lot of them I’ve seen some guys on the internet that even built little vacuum to devices to check in and the only brand I’ve ever seen that seals is the triple sealed STR bleeders yes we sell mostly was racing calm not telling you that just because we saw them but we do try to handle the best of the best and I consider STR fork leaders the best of the best they do not leak you can put a vacuum tester on them they don’t leak so from there the steering head bearings justment you know especially when you get a new bike after you ride it a couple times it’s probably going to get a little FreePlay in there and most guys don’t realize it and they just keep on riding it until they’ve actually done some damage to the bearing race I can feel I’ll still loose steering head bearing by pushing the bike less than a foot I can push it just barely move it grab the front brake and I can feel if they’re loose now of course I’ve been doing this forever but I’ve also been able to feel that for a hell of a long time when this adjustment is a little bit loose you know the triple strange to him wants to move back and forth like this and it’s very my very small prey for my Newt but just grab that front brake as you’re pushing your bike across the garage

floor grab that front brake real quick and see if you feel a little click in there little foot click every time you tap the brake it’s because this needs suggested so in order to do that you loosen these two pinch bolts but you over here this one and then you snug this up that’s how you’re doing on a KTM on other bikes there’s an adjuster nut down underneath here which Japanese bikes use that method a lot key TM and Husqvarna I use this method so then guys are like well what do I torque that to you well get over up to workaholics this is not a tour coholic moment you have to do it by feel so quite often it only needs to be tight in a quarter of a turn maybe a half a turn at the most maybe a sixteenth I can feel a sixteenth if it’s loose I can feel that play so loosen these bolts pull this down by tightening it that small amout and it’s a tapered bearing it’s a very tough bearing the worst thing you can do by over tightening it is make it to where steers hard and then you know you’ve gone too far but snug it up and retighten these bolts those are bolts that should be torqued these ones here and on the other side this one not so much but you can if you want you definitely want to keep up on that though because it will damage the bearings over time next thing I like to do specially on new bikes is wheel maintenance I’ve got a separate video on that because every new bike I’ve owned I I find it at least a couple loose spokes if not more and when I say loose they’re not flopping loose they’re just not totally tightened correctly you can watch our video on that to find out how to do it if you’re not familiar with it and then transmission oil guys ask all the time what kind of transmission oil should I use and how should I change it well I don’t really care what you use as long as you change it a lot that’s the main key just pick out a decent brand motor x-bow Remo tool motor acts whatever a name or good name brand and then just changed a lot now if you’re running a recluse Auto clutch then you might want to use the Motul 300 V I think it’s called don’t quote me on that it’s on our site and MOTU and recluse is just coming out with a new oil design for their clutches so that I’d be the best choice and as far as how often you change it well if you just go ride Limpy trails all the time and you’re cruising long fourth fifth and sixth gear you’re not putting much demand on your transmission oil your clutch is not slipping you’re not banging on the gears so you can go a lot longer maybe I don’t know 500 miles or so if you’re riding super gnarly tight trails where you’re slipping the clutch all day the motors running hot maybe boiling over once in a while the fans chicken on a bunch those types of trails well then just use some common sense and change a little more often well let’s see what do we have here break foot it would be one of my next things that I like to keep on top of you know I ride a lot of bikes people for it often want to ride my bike so what happens is I am riding their bikes or sometimes I just am ridin with somebody I see that I’m constantly struggling on things that aren’t that hard so I just ask him let me ride that steaming pile and see what’s going on and I realize if they’ve stacked the deck against themselves my poor bike said poor choices on what they’ve put on it and poor maintenance so I I absolutely detest mushy sloppy feeling brakes I like like him to stay the way they come from the factory very responsive and that’s the way you should keep them all the time so brake fluid it’s one of the main things that’s going to help that so change is the brake fluid quite often you know if you’re a racer guy and you’re done long events enduros or GNC sees where you’re on that bike for several hours and you’re just spanking it hurt on and off the brakes all day long I would change it after every one of those events I would change the front and the rear brake fluid if you’re just a casual trail rider and you just can’t sit on your butt and turn the

throttle all day long and I don’t really find anything too gnarly maybe once or twice a year if you’d like to get out there and kind of well pretty hard with your buddies and attacked gnarly stuff and do some brake sliding and whatever and you know you’re on the brakes hard a lot you’re steep terrain so you’re either going up and down well and you can make a decision there on how often I change it but I change mine I ride a lot of gnarly stuff and I’ll change my brake fluid about four times a year usually another thing I do is I don’t run my brake pads down until they’re metal and I’m pretty easy on brakes actually but you can see how thick they are stock and I never run them down to blow half of that pad material just because when you do they become mushy even if you rebleed them they’re a little on the mushy side so I like to keep fresh pads in there and you’re probably thinking well I can’t afford to keep fresh pads in there well most guys who tell me that I see all kinds of stuff on their bike that’s totally useless orange bling stuff that does nothing but yet they can’t say they can’t afford brake pads we might reconsider your priorities maintenances should be a higher priority than bling or some other useless thing that you read about on the internet just you know having a good fresh bike there’s much better than having a bunch of garbage on it and and then also make sure that you keep the free play here at the brake pad at a decent level it’s about right that Monday for me actually a little bit loose but I get on bikes and you push the brake pad halfway down before anything happens throttle free play same thing here this needs to be this is actually slightly sloppy hobby snugging that up a little bit but guys will say well why why do I have to worry about that I mean as long as I turn the phone over the bike goes that’s all I care about well so every time you shut off that throttle you’re going to turn it all the way forward it’s just a natural instinct you shut it off going into a turn and you got to get back on so if it’s got a bunch of free play in and you got to turn it a quarter of a turn before anything happens that’s wasted energy that’s a sloppy feel and this is the number one place where you want a great feel you don’t want to have a bunch of slop on that to where you can’t figure out where the engagement point is all the time so we’ll keep it adjusted to where it only has them I guess this one is in spec it’s supposed to be three to five millimeters of rotation and I like it more on the three side you know let’s talk about air filters so there’s a lot of new beasts and we get a lot of questions from newbies guys that are new to key teams or just new to the sport and it’s hard for me to remember back to those days because I’ve been riding forever but their questions are valid and need to be addressed so just things like air filters they’re like well how dirty is dirty you know when do I change it how often should I change it well it’s totally a judgment call you just got to look at it and make a decision so this filter right here is not very dirty it’s not worth cleaning I most the time I’m the guy who knows the trail so I’m up on the front but if I was riding in an area that I didn’t know and somebody else was leading and it was a dusty day and I knew it was going to be dusty I would clean this filter I would make sure I had the cleanest filter possible before I went on that ride but typically you want them to get a lot dirtier than this before you change them and I’ll make a separate video on that because I see a lot of I see that done wrong a lot as well the biggest problem being spray-on filter oil I suppose it’s good if it’s used totally correctly but most of the time it is not guys use it because it’s convenient they can just push that button and get it on there but I do not use it I do not recommend it and I’ve seen a lot of damaged engines because of the spray-on filter oil reason is it’s a couple of reasons it’s not as tacky as is regular filter oil that you have to squirt on there no they have to make it a little bit thinner to get it to spray out of the can and then the but probably

the bigger issue is as guys don’t put enough on they just kind of spray around and you know that looks good let’s go call it good well what happens is they suck dirt in their motor I’ve seen a lot of engines with that have been destroyed from spray-on filter oil fuel filters so this is a fuel injection fuel injected bike this is a TPI model it’s a part of here and on these at this connector this is where you can disconnect the fuel line to take the tank off there’s a very small filter in there as you should keep an eye on you can just pop it out and blow it out with the air and then there’s another one inside the tank with the fuel filter let the fuel filter with the fuel pump excuse me and that’s one’s much larger I think the factory says have changed every 40 hours you can probably go a lot longer than that if you’re as long as you don’t get a bad batch of gas with water in it or out of a dirty old gas can that’s got a bunch of grit in the bottom so if you’re careful that can probably last a lot longer than that if you’ve got a carburetor bike then you should just put our inline fuel filter in it that’s clear so you can see it easily and make a decision on how often that needs to be made or needs to be changed just by looking at it and let’s see guys talk about or ask me a lot about top ends how often should I change the top end on my bike well that kind of depends on a few factors so there’s the top in so I’m a trail rider I don’t race anymore too old and I actually just prefer a trail riding and I changed mine at about I put a new piston rings in it about every out 80 hours I think more more common service point is more around 120 hundred 25 hours seems to work out well for most guys if you’re racing you know if you’re a heavy hardcore racing you out there racing every weekend I’d probably change it at 40 hours if you motocrosser on unlike the 250sx or something maybe even less than that and 125 those those need to be changed quite often if you’re racing now if you’re trail riding not so much and then as far as Pistons I really prefer the vertex they make them make the factory piston it’s I agreed silicon CASP piston very high quality works very well and I never ever change rings if the Rings are worn out the Pistons worn out the Rings I mean the piston went the same place that the Rings did up and down a zillion times and the piston needs to be changed at the same time I would never waste my time taking a top band apart just put in rings hello let’s see what am I forgetting here the clutch guys I get lots of questions about clutches guys we always want to replace their clutch plates and I’d say at least 90% of the time they’re wasting their money because KTM clutches are extremely tough the clutch baskets are extremely tough the clutch plates are extremely tough excuse me extremely tough and unless you do something like get it stuck in our horrible mud bog and just hammer the shit out of the clutch to get it out of there you’re probably never going to tear one of these up we sell clutches but we don’t sell that many of them and I think probably at least half of that we do sell don’t need to be replaced if you have doubts about your clutch if you bought the bike used and you’re not sure well then lay the bike on its left side pull the clutch cover off pull the plates out of the clutch it’s very easy I’ll make a video on that here one of these days in and inspect it I don’t know if the owner’s manual has it but the service manual has the service limits on the plates you just measure them with calipers it’s really simple clutches are very simple on buycks let me think what I might be forgetting here you know probably one thing that we should sure was once in a while is the starter system now if you have like an O 8 through 16 the starter system is mediocre at best even brand new from the factory they were not so

great and they need a lot of maintenance you should constantly take them apart and clean and grease all the gears which are all behind these covers this is a 19 so this is different looking cover than what’s on the older models 17 through 19 all have this that’s another thing is guys don’t get confused about what bike you have I mean 17 through 19 to 50s and three hunters are all the same bike with the vert with mostly cosmetic changes others and then the 19th of course got the fuel injection but still 99% of the bike is the same bike sort of skid plates pipe cards pipes just whatever so do a little research and figure out what your bike really is and then the Bendix sits down in this area so all Jeff do is remove this cover and you can service everything very easily there’s the bushings in there as well for the Bendix you should try to keep those maintained as well and I think that’s about all they’re doing so there is a new article on the May twenty nineteen issue of dirt bike magazine which might want to check out it has all these maintenance tips in it actually that’s the most I’ve not all of them so if you want to reveal my own and in that magazine and there’s also a great article entirely on the TPI models we hoped or we worked with dirt bike magazine on that if you have any questions belay these things just drop me a line info us Weyland racing calm and it’ll spoil all for now